On the first morning our son asked whether he could have his phone back. On the third he asked whether we could get up earlier, because the guide had said the lions would still be hunting then. Somewhere between those two moments something shifted.
We had our doubts about their ages beforehand. Nine and twelve — is that not too young for long days in a car? Angel had said on the phone that we needn’t worry, as long as we kept the drives short and planned enough time by the pool. She was exactly right.
The first morning in Tarangire
At six we were at the gate. Not another vehicle in sight. Our guide Emmanuel switched off the engine and told us to listen. What followed was ten minutes of silence in which you heard only birds, and then the sound of elephants breaking branches, somewhere to our left in the valley.

Mum, I don’t need my phone any more. Something is always happening here.
Sem, aged 9 — on day four
What we would do differently
One thing: we should have stayed one more night in the Serengeti. Not because we missed anything, but because it is only on the third day that you start seeing instead of looking. The rest of the route we would do exactly the same again.
- Bring a pair of binoculars each, not one for the whole family
- Book the balloon flight in advance — it was full when we got there
- Let the children each pick an animal to watch out for